Posted by: Walker Mackey | 2010/06/10

El Cap in a Day

Two days after climbing The Captain with Ben I ran into my friend Hayden. Hayden is a world class climber who I meet in Patagonia, Chile. It had always been my dream to climb El Cap in a day and Hayden had just had a partner bail on him so he was looking for someone to climb with. He suggested that we try Lurking Fear. Neither of us had climbed the route before and we both believe that “Life is too short to repeat routes.” Lurking Fear in a day it was. We packed up on the night of Sunday, June 6th and convened in the lodge for a PHAT bowl of chili, “Maybe not the best meal to eat before a day accent of The Captain.” Lots of calories, but saturated with beans. Luckily we had decided to maintain speed by short-fixing the route. This is a classic speed climbing technique that allows the leader to constantly be leading while the second jugs and cleans. Hayden and I would be separated from each other for the first half of the route, leaving plenty of space between us to use the upward propeltional power of the lodge cafeteria chili. Hayden blasted at daylight leading all the way to pitch thirteen in three and a half hour. It is an amazing privilege to climb with H to the K. He is the silent rock assassin. I was ultra impressed with the definitive precision in which Hayden tactically dispatched Lurking Fear, serv’n up a killer wu-tang woop’n.  After some quick lunch and a change over at pitch 13 I lead us to the summit performing my first series of short fixing leads. It was an amazing experience to have climbed one of the world’s largest vertical faces in a little over six hours. We were psyched! We hustled down the decent and were at the bridge in time for some afternoon Cobra and a jump in the river. I had climbed El Cap twice in a week and couldn’t have asked for a more perfect way to spend a Sunday in Yosemite Valley.


  1. I stand in awe, my son.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s


%d bloggers like this: